What Fast Fashion Does & What Consumers Can Do

According to the Wall Street Journal, American shoppers buy five times more clothing than in 1980. The average consumer buys 68 garments a year, wears each piece seven times, and then disposes it in a landfill. This relatively new consumer-culture trend is due to the rise of fast fashion. Fast fashion refers to the rapid production of cheaply made clothing sold at a low price point.

Garments showcased in high-end runway collections are costly and are limited in stock, making them inaccessible to the average consumer. Fast fashion manufacturers, such as H&M, Zara, Forever 21, and Topshop mass-produce variations of the high-end runway designs into inexpensive garments made of cheaper fabrics. The fast fashion industry has drastically changed the garment and textile industry because their affordable garments, make the latest fashion trends accessible to all customers (Phadtare).

In the fashion industry, companies typically produce two or more collections throughout the year. However, the Fast fashion industry produces 52 collections, which means they are creating new clothing every week. By constantly producing trendy garments, fast fashion companies can keep up with customer's rapidly evolving fashion tastes and current trends.

The upside to the fast fashion industry is that it has democratized fashion, anyone can access good style without hurting their bank account. But the fast-fashion business model 'trendy for less' has disastrous effects on the environment. The production of clothing, overuse of water in said production, chemical pollution, CO2 emissions, and textile waste that are pervasive in the fast fashion industry continually contribute to environmental decline. Though it may seem impossible, it is feasible to shift away from this toxic consumer culture revolving around fast fashion, thereby supporting slow fashion, moving consumer culture towards more environmentally conscious businesses and products.

Fast fashion enables consumers to purchase trendy clothing at an affordable price no matter their socioeconomic background. For the clothing to be inexpensive, the fabrics and textiles used to make the clothing need to be cheap. Petrochemical textiles are the fast fashion industry's miracle solution to producing cheap garments (Mukherjee). Petrochemicals are chemical products that derive from petroleum. Petrochemical textiles are preferred over textiles like cotton and plant-based materials because they are easier to manipulate and cheaper to manufacture (Phadtare). This textile creates fabric such as polyester, spandex, and nylon. Due to the rise of the fast fashion industry's popularity, the demand for petrochemical textiles has doubled in the last fifteen years (Phadtare).

The raw materials used to make the fast fashion industry's infamous cheap and accessible clothing are primarily responsible for depleting natural resources and global warming (Europa). The production of petrochemical textiles is an energy-intensive process that requires large amounts of fossil fuels, which is concerning since fossil fuels' reserves are decreasing at an alarming rate. The manufacturing of synthetic textiles also has far-reaching environmental implications (Mukherjee). According to the World Bank, the increase in fossil fuel burning has made the fast fashion industry responsible for 10% of the annual global carbon emissions. To put that statistic into perspective, that is more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. Just the textile production alone releases 1.2 billion tonnes of greenhouse gases into the atmosphere every year (Beall). If the fast fashion industry continues to use petrochemical textiles to make their affordable garments, it is estimated that the industry's greenhouse gas emissions will surge more than 50% by 2030.

The other concern about petrochemical textiles is that they are mostly made out of plastic. One load of laundry containing petrochemical textiles, such as polyester or nylon, will discharge hundreds of thousands of microplastic fibers (Sajn). Microplastics are tiny plastic particles that pass-through water filtration systems and end up in the ocean. According to a 2017 study conducted by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), about 35 percent of the ocean's microplastics originated from petrochemical textiles (Phadtare). The microplastic fibers are ingested by marine life and also ingested by those who consume those animals, including humans (Phadtare). Consuming fish is not the only way microplastics can end up in the human food chain; microplastics are being ingested by water. According to National Geographic, it is estimated that humans consume 39,000 and 52,000 microplastics every year.

The garment production is another area in the fast fashion industry that raises several concerns regarding the overuse of water and chemical pollution. The process of spinning raw materials into yarns, weaving them into fabrics, and dyeing the clothing is an energy-intensive process that requires large amounts of chemicals and water (Sajn). A study conducted by the European Parliamentary Research Service on the relationship between the environment and the clothing industry states that there are over 1,900 chemicals used in the production of dyeing clothing that is deemed hazardous to the environment (Sajn). An excessive amount of water is also needed to produce clothing, the process of washing, bleaching, and dyeing clothing requires about 200 liters of water to produce 1 kg of textile. The dyeing process alone requires over 150 liters of water per kilogram of fabric (Sajn). Many of the dyes used for clothing production contain toxic heavy metals such as copper and zinc, which are known carcinogens (Mukherjee).

Garment production also leads to water waste. Most of the manufacturing process dyes do not adhere to the fabric; about 40,000-50,000 tons of dye ends up in rivers, streams, and oceans (Mukherjee). The wastewater from the dyeing process can be treated to remove the toxic chemicals, but it does not typically happen (Mukherjee). One of the reasons is that most clothing production occurs in developing countries, which lack environmental laws and legislation (Sajn). Even if the water seems clean, the temperature of the water is another issue (Mukherjee). The process of dyeing clothing requires boiling water. If the water is not treated and appropriately cooled before being discharged, the hot water waste will devastate marine life ecosystems. The World Bank estimates that the fast fashion industry is responsible for 20 percent of the industrial water pollution every year.

The other issue in the manufacturing process is textile waste. The fast fashion manufacturers produce clothes for 52 'seasons' a year, which means that they are selling new clothes every week. The business model of the fast fashion industry promotes a throw-away culture. The consistent production of new clothing every week entices buyers to throw away their clothing and buy the latest trend. This toxic consumer culture is beneficial for a person's closet but not for the environment.

According to the Wall Street Journal, over 100 billion items are produced each year and sent to brands like H&M, Zara, Forever 21, and Topshop. It is almost impossible for these brands to sell all the clothing; about 20% of the clothing is unsold. Unfortunately, the majority of the unsold clothes end up in the landfill. It is estimated that the fast fashion industry produces 38 million tons of textile waste that goes to the landfill per year (Phadtare). In the United States, approximately 85% of textiles are thrown away, and about 13 million tons are thrown into the landfill (Beall). By 2030, it is expected that the globe will be throwing away more than 134 million tons of textiles a year (Beall).

One may assume that the solution to this textile waste problem would be to recycle, but it's not that simple. The issue is that fast fashion clothing is made from a combination of complex fibers and problematic blends of natural yarns, plastics, and metals (Beall). Even if a t-shirt from Zara says it is made of 100% cotton, it typically contains other blended petrochemicals or synthetic materials. Clothing made from various materials makes it almost impossible to recycle, and the synthetics are not biodegradable. It takes over two hundred years for the materials in clothing to decompose in a landfill (Beall). The synthetic materials release greenhouse gases, toxic chemicals, and dyes into the groundwater and soil.

The trajectory of the Fast Fashion industry points to the potential for catastrophic outcomes. If the fashion industry continues on its current path, the negative impacts are set to increase drastically. A 2017 study conducted by the Ellen Macarthur Foundation outlined how the industry would impact the environment in 30 years. By 2050, the study estimated that garments and textiles production will use more than 26 percent of the carbon budget. The carbon budget is the cumulative amount of carbon dioxide emissions allowed over a certain period to keep the globe at a certain temperature threshold. As the production of garments and textiles expands, it is projected that the industry's consumption of non-renewable resources will increase by 300 million tons per year by 2050. If the industry continues to use non-renewable resources, the number of plastic microfibers entering the ocean will increase to 22 tons by 2050. Even though consumers are paying low prices for fast fashion clothing, people are unfortunately paying a higher price that is taxing on the environment.

There is no easy answer to fix the fast fashion industry's impact on the environment. But a solution to countering fast fashion is by embracing slow fashion. Fast fashion persuades consumers to throw out 'old' clothes when new trends come in, but a new trend comes out every week for the fast fashion industry. Slow fashion aims to eliminate throw-away culture and counters the belief that people need a new clothing item every week to be trendy. Slow fashion does not promote repeating the same clothes; it just means that people should be more conscious about consumer-culture (Slow Nature). That means buying fewer products of higher quality and supporting brands that produce only two collections per year: spring/summer and autumn/winter (Slow Nature). It also means being more thoughtful about where you shop, such as local craftsmen, and looking at the label to see if the business uses certified eco-friendly materials (Slow Nature).

There are many advantages to slow fashion, when compared to fast fashion. From a quality standpoint, there is no comparison between the two fashion industries (Slow Nature). Products that embrace slow fashion last longer offer a unique style, use high-quality materials, and are primarily handcrafted or semi-crafted, helping grow the local economy (Slow Nature). Over the past few years, innovative brands and designers are using new forms of technology to make and distribute "slower" clothing (Dumais). The environmental impact of slow fashion is minimal. Unlike Fast Fashion, slow fashion uses eco-friendly certified materials and fabrics that have a low carbon footprint (Slow Nature). The production and processing of the materials are conducted in an artisanal way, which has a much lower impact on the environment than the fast fashion industrial process (Slow Nature).

The only solution to counter fast fashion is to embrace slow fashion, but that is not easy for the average consumer. Fast fashion's attractive business model 'trendy for less' has democratized the fashion world and lured millions of consumers. Fast fashion provides trendy and stylish pieces at an affordable price. In contrast, slow fashion products are higher in price because they use long-lasting materials made of natural and organic fibers instead of non-renewable synthetics like polyester. The high cost is also because companies who embrace the slow fashion business model do not produce their clothing at an offshore manufacturer. The unfortunate reality is that many sustainable fashion brands are unobtainable to the average person, even if they match their ethical sensibilities (Cazmi). According to the United States Census Bureau, it was estimated that in 2020 American women's average median income was around $42,000 while men earned around 52,000. It is no surprise that an average consumer will choose a t-shirt that is 20 dollars at a fast-fashion retailer that may cost 100 dollars at a slow fashion brand. Due to the substantial difference in prices between sustainable retailers and their fast fashion counterparts, it is difficult for consumers to quit shopping at fast fashion brands.

Contrary to most beliefs about slow fashion, the sustainable movement is not solely centered around paying more for sustainable materials and higher quality products; paying higher prices is just a tiny part of the movement. Adopting slow fashion is merely awareness. It aims to shift the consumer's mindset about products and increase their awareness of consumer culture. Even though it takes effort, there are ways for a consumer to adopt a slow fashion lifestyle, even if they are not making six figures a year.

Re-prioritizing shopping habits is one way a consumer can embrace slow fashion (Cazmi). This requires a Maire Kondo way of thinking, buying fewer products, and focusing on the items that 'spark joy.' Think more about what items are necessary and focus less on the items that will be thrown away after two or three wears. During rebuilding a sustainable wardrobe, people may realize they have more clothing items than they need. Instead of throwing out unwanted garments, take them to a thrift store or a donation center. Small, thoughtful efforts like reducing consumption and recycling clothes will expand a garment's life and avoid it going into landfills.

Consumers can also learn how to understand clothing labels. When it comes to food, many consumers know what they do and do not want to see it on a label, and most people will make their purchasing decisions based on that information (Dumais). Consumers know to avoid certain dyes, high-fructose corn syrup, and genetically modified foods, but most people do not know the lingo for fashion labels. Fortunately, it takes minimal effort to understand the language for garment labels. First, always look for the word "organic" and avoid labels that say "conscious" or "sustainable." Words like "conscious" and "sustainable" are used flippantly and carry no weight, whereas the word "organic" comes with legal prerequisites (Dumais). The Global Organic Textile Standard oversees the harvesting of raw materials and manufacturing of the material to ensure that textiles' organic status is credible (Dumais). Second, people should look for labels that contain a Fair-Trade certification. The Fair Trade Certified seal assures consumers that the garment's production followed rigorous environmental standards, which is not the standard for fast fashion. If people know what to look for on clothing labels, it can encourage a revolution in the fashion industry (Dumais).

If buying a clothing item is necessary, there are alternatives to fast fashion that still embrace slow fashion but do not break the bank. Second-hand stores sell many trends that are in brand-name stores for a fraction of the price. Luckily, we are living in a digital age where people can also shop second-hand online. Several Instagram accounts and shopping platforms sell new and gently used clothing at a discounted price. Everyone craves a stylish outfit for a particular occasion, but typically they are never worn again. Fortunately, there are now rental stores that offer the perfect outfit for the one-time event.

The fast fashion industry is dependent on one thing, consumers. The more people reject fast fashion and adopt a slow fashion lifestyle, the more positive change we will see (Phadtare). Slow fashion is already gaining popularity throughout the globe and is seen as a threat by major fast fashion brands (Phadtare). As a result, some fast fashion brands are taking steps towards the direction of sustainable fashion. Zara launched a sustainability project that aims to change their business to be more sustainable. Before 2025, Zara aims to have all of its facilities use 80 percent of renewable energy for their facilities, use 100 percent organic cotton, 100 percent recycled polyester, and 100 percent sustainable linen. H&M recently committed to a "Climate Positive" pledge. The fast-fashion brand aims to reduce textile waste, decrease greenhouse gas emissions, and use more fabrics that leave a lighter footprint.

Not only can consumers influence businesses, but they can also dictate the price of sustainable clothing. Suppose more consumers, who are financially able, support slow fashion businesses and invest in sustainable clothing. In that case, it will eventually lead to lower prices and make it more accessible to the average consumer. The increase of consumer demand leading to the lowering of prices is currently happening to organic food. In the past couple of years, the price difference between organic and non-organic foods has been narrowing (Sienger). The main reason for the decrease in organic foods price is the increasing consumer demand, which compelled farmers to transition to organic production and mainstream grocery stores to offer organic produce (Siegner). In 2018, consumers paid 7.5 percent more for organic food, whereas in 2014, it was 9% more (Sienger). The decline in the price of organic food is an example of the power consumers have over brands. Consumers have control over the future and can dictate the direction of brands.

It will take an immense amount of time for real change to take place within the fast fashion industry but change has to start somewhere. So, let it be the consumers who drive the change. In the words of the Pulitzer Prize winning journalist, Thomas Friedman, “There is only one force bigger than Mother nature, and that is Father Greed.” Whether it is money or material possession, greed is about taking more than we need. The impact of our greedy actions as consumers will soon be irreversible and eventually Mother nature will win. So, the next time you shop at a fast fashion brand, consider what is really at stake. And in the meanwhile, stop craving the look of a famous Instagram influencer and get educated on sustainability and ethical movements in the fashion industry.